Replacement of Television
1999 Winnebago Adventurer
The replacement of the existing CRT television started when we saw several pictures of Motorhomes that the CRT television had been replaced with LCD flat panel televisions. We liked the look, and we liked the idea of going to a television with an HD tuner built in. This would negate the need for a digital/analog converter in the future. This document will go through the process that I used to remove the existing CRT television and install the new LCD television. Based on my measurements, I decided on a Samsung Model LNT2353H. This is a 23 inch television with speakers on the bottom.
The TV (Television) in this unit (GE 20 inch CRT) is mounted in the front passenger (right) corner of the Motorhome. It has a cabinet on the left side that houses the 130-watt Inverter, the TV antenna amplifier switch and the antenna (video) switch. It might also have a switch for the “Deluxe Sound” system. The “Deluxe Sound” system consists of an additional audio amplifier, and two more speakers for a total of six (6). Our Motorhome does not have the “Deluxe Sound” system, however I have found wiring for it behind the Television.
The Television has three connections on the back of it. The power cable, which is normally plugged in to the ignition controlled outlet on the Inverter, the antenna cable which comes from the antenna switch and a connection to the speakers.
This picture shows existing television and the measurements around it. Red line indicates approximate location of the "new" television.
Procedure to remove (based on my experience): Unless noted all screws are Phillips (cross top) type.
cover below the antenna switch, which also has the antenna amplifier switch, and
possibly the “Deluxe Sound” system switch. It also has the cutout for the
Inverter. It is held in place with two sheet metal type screws on the left side
and Velcro on the right side.
2) Remove the wood trim piece on the right side of the TV. Two wood plugs need to be removed to access the screws (also sheet metal type), which hold the wood trim piece in place. The plugs can be removed by pulling them out carefully with a pair of pliers. They are held in with silicone.
metal bracket on the right side of the TV that the wood trim piece attached to.
The metal bracket attaches to the cabinet on the right side (the one above the
window) with three or four small wood type screws. The bracket will stay
attached to the plastic trim around the TV.
4) On the left side of the TV there are two screws that go into the side of the plastic trim. One is low on the left corner and is accessed through the metal frame, behind the panel that you removed that held the TV antenna amplifier switch. The second is above that near the top of the TV. You have to access them through the metal frame that separates the cabinet from the TV.
might be some Velcro securing the plastic front trim to the bottom plastic (underhang).
Gentle pulling and you can remove the front trim piece.
6) There is a single steel clamp (strap) across the top of the TV holding it down to the metal shelf. The strap has a bolt on each end that is affected to the strap, cannot be removed. The nut on the left side can be removed with a ½ inch wrench or adjustable wrench. On the right side a ½ inch deep socket on a short extension works best. It is also accessed through the metal frame on the right side. It is located about 3 inches below the top of the TV. You will be able to look in and see it.
7) Once the nuts are removed, you can remove the clamp. I shifted the TV to the left and removed the right side of the strap. You can flex it upward a little to get it free of the right shelf support. I then shifted the TV to the right and removed the left side of the strap. You might not need to remove the strap (clamp) but you need to lift the TV up to get it off the shelf.
strap (clamp) is removed, you need to left the TV up and slide it forward to get
it out. There is a sort lip on the front of the shelf that holds the TV in
place, keeps it from sliding forward. I have also read that there could be a
screw through the bottom of the shelf going upward into the TV. I did not find
this on mine. Once you get the TV over the lip, slide it forward. Remember that
you have three wires on the back. If you have unplugged the power cable from the
Inverter, you just need to pull it out. I found that I have enough slack in the
wires that I could slide the TV out, put my foot (right) on the passenger seat,
and rest the TV on the top of my leg while I removed the antenna cable and the
speaker wire. The speaker wire has a mini stereo plug on it, just pulls out. You
might need a wrench or pliers to get the antenna cable off.
The shelf is
in three separate pieces. The bottom attaches to structural steel in the front
(front of motorhome) with five screws. The sides attach with four screws on each
side to structural steel of the motorhome in the ceiling. The shelf attaches at
the bottom to the sides with three bolts that are attached to the shelf and
three nuts. I removed the nuts on each side, then removed the screws going
through the ceiling.
I then had
more working room to remove the five screws along the front of the shelf. These
screws were the tightest that I found and ended up breaking a Phillips head bit
on them. I found that using a Phillips bit and a ratchet handle worked best to
remove these screws.
11) You are now left with a large opening. Mine measured 24 ¼ inches across the top, 24 inches across the bottom, 14 ¼ inches from the ceiling to the bottom of the cabinet on the left side and 12 ¾ inches on the left side. In the back of the opening, in amongst other wiring, I found a white plug with a green wire and a purple wire that was not connected to anything. It was marked (as best I could read) with circuit ID 125348. In research, I found a circuit ID close to this indicating that it when to a right side speaker for the “Deluxe Sound” system. Might try and find the other end of this wire and see it is possible to add the amplifier and extra speakers.
So, how am I going to install the new one? Well I think that I will start with holding a piece of plywood or fiber board under the cabinet where the "underhang" was. I will trace an outline of the opening, then with luck, see if I can find some vinyl that will match it at a local upholstery shop. I will hold it in place with either painted screws (like are used now) or will use some sort of screw cover.
Next, I think that I will find a point on both cabinets, probably about where the metal strip screwed onto the left cabinet, and just behind the front edge on the right cabinet, measure that, then cut a piece of 1/2 inch oak plywood to go across that opening, and from the ceiling to the bottom edge of the cabinet. I will trim this with oak strips to make it look more like a "factory" install and match existing cabinet work.
I then plan on using some 1/8 inch by 1 1/2 inch aluminum angle metal to build a frame that attaches to the structure of the Motorhome that will hold the plywood panel and the television. The weight of the new television is 15 pounds. Not a lot of weight, but I want it secure so it does not "flap in the breeze" as I drive down the road. I plan to use two aluminum straps 1 inch x 1/8 inch that will attach to the television, then attach the aluminum strips through the plywood and into the interior aluminum frame. I will use carriage bolts on the straps that attach through the plywood and through the aluminum frame. This way I can put locking "castle" nuts on the inside, probably use lock washers and locktite. Access to the attachment area will be through the bottom.
This is the plan. I hope to start the fabrication about the middle of December. Will update this page with more information and pictures as I go along.
Ok, so how did I actually do the install? Not how I listed above (in blue). I decided to do a "frame" type install so that it would blend better with the existing cabinets.
I started by making a template out of 1/4" plywood. This template "fit" the opening between the cabinets and had a cut out for the TV. I used a Samsung 23" 720P model as the speakers were on the bottom and I could get more viewing area. The actual viewing area is about 3 1/2 inches wider than the old set, but it is about 1 1/2 inches narrower top to bottom than the old set.
This template is pretty rough, but it gave me an idea of what I wanted and what I needed to do.
I then started looking for 1/2 inch Oak plywood. I just need a 2 ft x 4 ft sheet (2 ft x 2 ft was just a little small). After looking at the local "Home" stores, it was suggested that I just use solid Oak and make the frame, since I was going to cut out the center anyway. This solved one problem, I could find the solid Oak, but not the Oak Plywood.
This is what the "rough" frame looked like. I used 1x2 on the sides, a 1x3 on the top and a 1x4 on the bottom. I doweled the corners and just used "butt" joints as that is what the existing cabinet uses. I also ran the grain in the same direction as the existing cabinets. I then used my template above to mark the are that needed to be cut out. I made sure that I had a "fit" in the opening first. I secured it with a piece of 1/2 inch angle aluminum on the right, using existing holes in the cabinet to screw the aluminum to. I used a piece of 1/8x2 inch aluminum on the left side, screwed into the cabinet using the existing holes. I then cut out the center using a router. This proved to be an annoying task, as I was using well worn router bits and this caused the router to grab and gouge where I did not want it to.
Once I got the frame to fit the opening and to fit around the TV, I wanted to match the finish. My Adventurer has Waterford Oak finish. This, I found out, is a Valspar stain, but not available through the local Home Depot, Lowes, etc. It was available in Dallas, TX but I did not pursue that avenue. I instead used a Minwax "Golden Pecan" stain and then a stain finish. Though not a perfect match it is not that noticeable.
The next question was how to actually mount or hang the TV in the opening. I decided to use 1 1/4 x 1/8 inch aluminum angle. This was light weight and easy to work with. During the process of making the cut-out in the frame for the TV, I determined how much would protrude through the frame. I then added an extra 1/8 inch. in total I knew that the back of the TV would extend 1 inch through the fame and with an extra 1/8 inch, I knew that I needed 1 1/8 inches to my mounting hardware. To find the exact length of my mounting hardware, I clamped 1 1/8 inches of material to the back side of the frame. Then using a level I determined the length of the top support section, and the bottom section. I ran the bottom section from the forward structural steel to the back of the TV. Basically I created two "U" shaped brackets that screwed into the ceiling structure and attached to the forward structural steel.
This shows the mounting brackets. Note that I put a piece of 1 inch aluminum angle on the front structural steel. This not only gave me a "lip" to hold the bottom "runner" it also gives me a place to attach the "cover" for the underside hole. You can see on the left and right the aluminum mounting for the frame that I mentioned earlier. I used corner braces on the corners and riveted those to the aluminum. A little "overkill" maybe, but I did not want a failure of this bracket as it bounces down the road.
This gives you a little different view of the framework.
To determine where to put the mounting holes for the TV, I used measurements from the sides and bottom of the frame. I also took a piece of paper, laid it over the holes on the back of the TV and used a pencil to punch holes in the paper where the holes were. I then took the paper, laid it on a piece of masonite, marked the location and drilled the holes. I now had a template to work with to properly align the holes.
Brackets with TV frame installed.
Here is a picture of the template clamped in place. I put masking tape over the aluminum as it made it easier to see marks on it.
The mounting bolts for the TV are 4mm with a thread pitch of .70. Normal wall mount installation calls for a 10mm long bolt. I got 30mm bolts, cut the heads off to make a "stud". I threaded one end into the TV, and here I would recommend installing a nut on the bolt once it has "bottomed" out. This will keep the stud from pushing farther than it should into the TV as you tighten the other end. I used lock washers and lock nuts on the frame side to hold the TV. I also added hook and loop (Velcro) to the area between the screws to give it a little more holding power.
Here is the test fit. I put a piece of cardboard across the front so that I could put my hand on it and not damage the screen.
This is the "finished" project. This is what it looks like with the TV installed. Not bad. Now that I see what it looks like complete, I wonder if you need the bottom piece of the frame. It would probably look as good with the side pieces of the frame ending at the bottom of the cabinets and the TV extending below it. I do have a gap on the top right side which is the result of trimming a little to much. I will fill this with a piece of Oak wood stock, unless I can find some wood grain trim tape to cover that opening.
A very important point: If you mount the TV as I did, beware of the left side bracket. If built as shown in the pictures, you will find that it extends below the bottom mounting screw on that side of the TV and causes interference with connectors, specifically THE POWER CORD. I got his all completed, went to put the power cord on and found that I could not connect it, the external speakers, other component inputs, etc. Mounts well, looks nice, but can't connect anything to it. I will be rebuilding the left side mount to allow access to the connection area.
You can see how I modified the left bracket to clear the rear connection port.
This is looking up from the bottom of the TV and shows where the connectors are located. You can also see the attachment to the ceiling of the Motorhome.
Here is the "completed" project. Are things ever really completed?
I also found that the Green and Purple wire I located in the TV area are actually for the speaker of the Deluxe Sound System. They apparently come from the amplifier area which is supposed to be in the passenger side foot well. I have not found the amplifier.
As for sound. My goal was to use the TV speakers and the coach mounted speakers. There is a speaker cable behind the TV that connected to the "headphone" jack of the old TV. When this is connected, you get the audio out the coach speakers, but no TV speakers. I was not about to open up a three month old TV to modify the "headphone" jack. I tried using the "speaker out" jacks on the TV, but this was not enough power to drive the coach speakers (which are two (2) 4-Ohm speakers wired in parallel for a total load of 8-Ohms). I tried an automotive Audio Amplifier, and found the same problem, the "speaker out" on the TV was not enough power to drive the amplifier. I tried to find an inexpensive audio amplifier but had no luck. In the "old" days you could get one for $20-$50. Now you have to spend at least $100 and get a Home Theater type system and just use the amplifier.
The solution ended up being on my desk. A 25W amplified set of computer speakers. This particular unit is made by Teac (cannot find it on a Google search) has two inputs for two different sources and a left and right speaker output for 4 or 8 Ohm speakers. It has internal speakers, which can be turned off. Additionally it has a headphone out jack that can be used. I simply went from the TV out to one of the inputs. Connected the single set of speaker wires from the coach speakers to the right speaker out. Now I have "front and rear" speakers on my TV. The second input I connected to my navigation computer, and while on the road, I plug a set of non-amplified speakers into the headphone jack. Now I can hear the directions. The amplifier unit is AC powered, but I just connected it to the inverter.
One thing that I did not touch on was the passenger side Sun Visor. The "old" one mounted on the bottom of the TV "underhang" and swiveled. With the removal of the "underhang" the Sun Visor mount went also. I attempted to find a Sun Visor that was the same as the one on the driver's side. Well, Winnebago not longer has that one. Instead I got on from a 2002 Adventurer. It is not the same color and is a little smaller left to right than the "old" one, but it hangs in the proper place and looks OK. The co-pilot does not spend a lot of time in that seat, so this will do.
Need to thank Lonnie Fox at Lichtsinn Motors RV Parts. He went out of his way to send me the dimensions of several Sun Visor so that I could get one that worked.
So, am I really done with this project? Well for now I am. I think the next project is laminate floor in the galley area. But that is a different page altogether.