Wolf Miata Power Door Locks, Alarm with Shock sensor and Mass sensor, Remote Trunk Release.

  Rating 8.5 out of 10. About 12 hours to install all components. Recommend!

  Customer Service, and shipping time were excellent, considering that this comes from the UK.

 This package came as three separate kits. The Power Locks, Alarm System and Trunk Release. Each came with it’s own set of installation instructions, complete with photographs. When purchasing you purchase the Power Locks and Alarm System as a Package and the Remote Trunk Release as a Package. Or you can Purchase individually.

 Power Door Locks – This is the first part of the install. The instructions for the Miata are relatively clear. The photographs are a little off as they are for a right-hand drive vehicle and not a left-hand drive vehicle. This takes some interpretation of the photos but is not really a problem. They provide good suggestions on running the wiring. In one point they recommend removing the fuse box under the steering wheel to get to the access port to the Driver’s side door. You also need to remove a silver circuit box that is bolted to the kick panel area and the firewall to get good access. A five-conductor cable is run to both doors for the lock mechanism. On the Driver’s side all five conductor are used. Basically the Driver’s side lock controls the Passenger side lock. On the Passenger side the five-conductor cable is run, but only two are used. Since this is a “universal” kit that has been tailored for the Miata, I would think the reducing the number of conductors from five to two would be a good idea making it a little easier to run the cable.  Connectors must be attached to the cables to connect to the door locks. These are not the “common” type crimp connectors, as they fit into a plastic housing.  I crimped them and soldered them to give me a good physical and electrical connection. Adjusting the locking rods did take some time – especially on the Passenger side door. In order to get the Passenger side lock latch to completely cover the “red,” I had to bend the actuator rod. This took several tries to get perfect.  Suggestion for the power connection is a white wire on the ignition switch plug. I was concerned about anything getting power from this point. I had a 10 gauge wire fused for 30 amps from the battery to a 30-amp breaker under the hood for fog lights. I simply ran a lead from the breaker to under the dash. This gave me ample power without having to tap ignition wires.

 Alarm System – This is made by Omega Research and Development – the K-9 Classic and customized by Wolf Miata for the Miata. Installing this makes the door locks work with the remote. Basically all of this is Plug N Play. You need to run wires into the engine compartment for the hood pin switch and for the alarm. Power comes from a jumper plug in the vehicle ignition circuit. A jumper plug that goes between the ignition switch and the factory ignition wiring provides the alarm power and the vehicle ignition/starter interrupt in the event of alarm activation. Connection to the turn signal circuit is made with electrical crimp on T-Taps – a very useful and versatile connection system that I have used in the past. Diodes protect the turn signal circuit from sending power backwards to the alarm. These diodes do get a little warm, so care should be taken in how they are tied up. I found that a connection to the door switch wiring impossible to find. This is the wiring that activates the dome light in the vehicle. I found it easier to tap into that rather than taking the dashboard out to find the proper wires described in the instructions. The alarm unit is designed to be mounted under the dashboard. I found locations to mount the Power Door Lock Relay and the Trunk Release Relay on two studs on the firewall. The alarm unit I ended up tie wrapping to the Steering column. Not a large amount of room to mount this unit. A location under a seat or behind a seat would be more convenient, but would entail lengthening wires.  There ends up being a lot of little bundles of wires that end up getting tie wrapped to existing wiring. This will create problems if one has to try and troubleshoot an electrical problem under the dash.  The two stage Shock Sensor is also tie wrapped to the Steering Column. I did it in a way I could get to the sensitivity controls without too much problem.  The Radar Mass Sensor is placed under the center console in the area of the Power Window switches.  Sensitivity is set before the console in replaced, so I have this pretty high without the console, and it made it just right when the console was installed. The siren is mounted under the hood, but could be mounted anywhere. I found an empty stud in the engine compartment to mount it to. Any wiring that left the dashboard area I put in wire loom to give it additional protection when possible.

 Trunk Release – This is the third part of the system.  This installed without problems with the exception of a wire color. In the directions they talk about a long green wire that runs from the alarm to the trunk release. The wire turned out to be green with a red stripe. Took a guess and the examination of the connectors on the wire to determine that it was correct. This wire was long enough to go to the trunk. The blue wire, the trigger wire was about 12 inches to short and even with creative routing sticks out from the interior of the trunk around a taillight. This unit is powered from both a power tap on the Door Lock power feed, and a power feed directly off the battery. The battery connection is for the trunk lights.

 

The only real problem I had was in trouble shooting two problems. One turned out to be a bad power connection, and the other a bad crimp on a ground connection. There are no FAQs, or other trouble shooting documents, either sent with the product or provided on-line. Emails to Bob Blythe, their representative assisted in locating the problems. That would be a major help, and with the number of these installed they are bound to have several problems and solutions documented.